The Proenza Schouler boys appeared as if they had replaced their typical cool girl clothing for lady like tweed skirts and jackets. The new aesthetic was feminine, polished and very classic. Modest garments in muted sorbet shades enclosed traditionally feminine design icons such as ruffles, lace, florals and embroideries. The collection progressed into the trademark Proenza cool with a gradual change from the sorbet colours to darker greys and black. The use of sheers cleverly introduced sex appeal into rather lady-like outfits. The next turn was to similar prints to those we saw in the last collection by the design duo, finally exploding in bright sulphuric colours and loose, sheer lace dresses. The final looks were typically Proenza Schouler with a lady like twist.
Phillip Lim had a puzzle piece concept to his latest collection with complex constructions to form each seemingly simple pieces. The collection remained with the houses’ standard feminine sportwear style with clean lines in a neutral colour palette. Black, grey and beige… enough said.
The Mulleavy sister’s took a different direction for their Spring Summer collection this year, moving away from their intricately disheveled pieces to a more simplified yet refined aesthetic. The pieces in the collection were inspired by the Northern Californian upbringing of the design duo: “seventies suburbia, wood paneling, gold, off colors like chartreuse—basically, a combination of all the things that represent the area to us.” – Laura Mulleavy. The collection featured a myriad of timber shades of brown with the exception of a splash of China-ware blue and gold. The technicality of the visionary designers is apparent in the geometric precision and sharp lines which are balanced with wispy, sheer under skirts incorporated in the garments. The construction and prints of the collection overall has a strong sense of seventies architecture particularly reminiscent of old school timber veneer homes. Rodarte delivers yet again.
